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Mashed Potatoes, Baked and Riced

by Matt Kennard

Baked rather than boiled, so no water gets in and the potatoes can take all the butter they deserve. Thyme and garlic go into the butter, not the pot.

Serves
10
Total
1 hr
BakedVegetablesDinnerEntertainingMake-aheadFor a crowd
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Boiling waterlogs potatoes, and waterlogged potatoes cannot take much butter before they turn loose. Baking them dry solves that. What goes in instead is a butter and oat milk infusion with thyme and garlic, warmed at the side of the stove the whole time the potatoes are in the oven.

Ingredients

10

Method

  1. Heat 45 min · a knife goes through with no resistance

    Heat the oven to 400F. Peel the potatoes, cut any large ones so they are all about the same size, and bake on a sheet pan for about 45 minutes, until a knife goes through with no resistance.

  2. Heat 45 min · shimmering, never simmering

    While they bake, put the butter, oat milk, garlic and thyme in a small pan over the lowest heat you have. It should shimmer, never simmer. Simmering makes the garlic sharp and the thyme bitter. Leave it to infuse for the whole 45 minutes.

  3. Prep strained and warm

    Strain the infusion and keep it warm.

  4. Prep riced while hot

    Rice the potatoes straight from the oven, while they are hot. Once they cool the starch sets and no amount of gentle work will bring them back.

  5. Finish smooth and creamy

    Fold in about two thirds of the warm infusion, then the rest, until smooth and creamy. Fold, do not beat: a mixer makes glue.

  6. Finish seasoned

    Season with white pepper, then taste for salt. Salted butter and the garlic take you most of the way, so correct at the end rather than the start.

If it's not right

What you seeWhyWhat to do
Gluey or elastic Beaten instead of folded, or riced after they cooled. Fold by hand, and rice them straight out of the oven.
Stiff and dry Not enough of the infusion went in. Add more warm infusion, a little at a time.
Loose Too much liquid at once. Fold in the last of it slowly next time.
Sharp or bitter garlic The infusion simmered. Keep it at a shimmer, never a simmer.

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